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Kathmandu
 Kathmandu, the capital and the largest city of Nepal, derives
its name from Kasthmandap or "house of wood" a pagoda-style
temple. A few steps away is the Temple of the Living Goddess,
where the clients may catch a glimpse of the Kumari at one of
the open windows overlooking the inner courtyard. All around
the splendour of historical monuments is the hustle & bustle
of the market place. Vegetable vendors, trees of flutes,
salesmen with their wares displayed on their person, souvenir
hawkers, street shop selling imported goods and tucked away in
a quiet corner the glittering bead market for custom made bead
necklaces.
Patan
 Patan
is also known as Lalitpur or the "city of fine arts" and is
the oldest city in the valley. This Buddhist City is said to
have been founded by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd
century BC. Patan is the cradle of arts and architecture of
the valley, a great center both of the Newari Buddhist
religion and of traditional arts & crafts with 136 bahals or
courtyards and 55 major temples. Well known among these are
the Krishna Mandir, Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Kumbheshwar
temple, Jagatnarayan temple & the Mahabouddha temple. Patan is
enclosed within 4 Buddhist stupas set on the four-corners of
the outer boundaries of this ancient city. A tour of Patan
would also include a visit to the Tibetan refugee village to
witness the hand weaving of Tibetan carpets using age-old
methods of dyeing and finishing. Three or four persons
at each loom weaving traditional designs, chatting & singing
can also be seen here.
Bhaktapur
 Bhaktapur or Bhadgaon meaning the "city of devotees" lies 14
km east of Kathmandu. It is the home of medieval art &
architecture and still retains its rich medieval aroma. A city
of farmers, Bhaktapur is also known for it's pottery and
weaving. Bhaktapur is the most charming and the best preserved
of the valley’s three cities. The intricately carved temples,
alleyways and timeless atmosphere of this place is simply
intriguing. The major sightseeing places in Bhaktapur include
Durbar Square, the Golden Gate, Palace of 55 windows, Bell of
the barking dogs, Nyatapole Temple, Bhairavanath Temple,
Dattatrya Temple, Pujari Math etc;
Bodhanath
 The
stupa of Bodhanath lies 8 km east of Kathmandu. It is the
biggest Stupa in Nepal and is located on flat land and
encircled by houses & monasteries, where Rinpoches reside.
This colossal Stupa is set on concentric ascending terraces in
the powerful pattern of a Mandala. Around the base of this
strikingly enormous and simple stupa is a ring of 108 images
of the Buddha and 147 insets containing prayer wheels.
Bungmati
& Khokana
The
twin villages of Bungmati & Khokana date from the 16th
century and are located south of Kathmandu, down a rutty road
dotted with Chaityas. Bungmati is the winter home of lord Rato
Machhendranath, the protector God of Patan. The shrine of
Karya Binayak is located between the two villages. At Khokana
ancient oil presses can be seen at work in village houses.
Budhanilkantha
9 km
north of Kathmandu in a small pond at the foot of the
Shivapuri Hills lies the half-submerged massive black stone
statue of the reclining Vishnu resting on a bed of snakes.
Worshippers strew the sleeping Vishnu with offerings of
flowers & rice. It is a monumental sculpture from the Lichhavi
period.
Champa Devi
The
hike to the top of Champa Devi (2,278m), the highest peak on
the Chandragiri Ridge south west of Kirtipur, affords a
panoramic view of the west Kathmandu valley, back dropped by
the snow covered Himalayas. Either starting from Chovar or
from Pharping the trail climbs steeply to join at a saddle
close to the top. A Hindu shrine and a white stupa mark the
Champa Devi summit. Several return routes are possible.
Staying close to the ridge continuing west, a trail descends
from the second saddle north to Kirtipur. Another descends
from the third saddle and reaches Kisipidi.
Chandeshwari
Chandeshwari shrine is located north of the sprawling trading
town of Banepa near Dhulikhel. A track leads northeast past
the town hospital to the temple on the bank of a forested
gorge. The temple is dedicated to Parvati, whom they called
upon to slay ‘Chand’, the most fearsome of the demons. It thus
became known as Chandeshwari, "the slayer of Chand". The main
attraction is a remarkable fresco of Bhairav, painted on the
western wall of the main structure. The torana and struts of
the three-tiered temple are richly carved with the eight Astha
Marikas, or "Mother goddesses" and eight Bhairavs.
Changunarayan
 The
road access to Changunarayan, 18 kms east of Kathmandu is from
behind Bhaktapur. Alternatively, it is a 45 minutes walk up
from the Sankhu road, across the Manohara River, using the old
pilgrim’s route or a pleasant half-day hike along the ridge
from Nagarkote on the eastern valley rim. The lavishly
decorated two-tiered temple was rebuilt after a fire in 1702,
but the earliest inscription in the valley dated 467 A.D.
testifies to the considerable talents of the Licchavi King
Mandeva I, Nepal’s first great historical figure. The temple
stands in a spacious courtyard, littered with priceless stone
sculptures from the 4th to 9th century
A.D. (Licchavi period). This golden age of classical Newari
art produced masterpieces that were entirely religious in
character.
Chapagaon
A
rough track to the south of the Kathmandu Valley winds steeply
downhill, through intricately terraced fields of reddish brown
soil to the ancient Lichhavi village of Lele, on through
terraced mustard fields and bamboo groves to Chapagaon.
An
important tantric temple of Vajra Varahi is located here in a
sacred grove of trees, built in 1665 – however, the site is
much older. Various naturally sculpted stones strewn about are
regarded as images of Ganesh, Bhairav and the Ashta Matrika.
Chovar
Carved out of a hillside, the Chovar gorge is the only outlet
for all the waters of the valley. Legend has it that
Manjushree, an ancient saint cut the mountain with his magical
sword, to drain out the water from the Kathmandu Valley which
was then just a lake. There is a small but picturesque temple
of Adinath on the top of the hill with a magnificent view of
the snow capped peaks. Just beyond the gorge is a temple of
lord Ganesh. The main image of the shrine is a massive rock,
naturally carved.
Dakshinkali
Dakshinkali is 45-minute drive south from Kathmandu. Located
in a dark valley at the confluence of two streams, the shrine
of Dakshinkali is the most spectacular of all Kali temples.
Animal sacrifices are offered to this deity signifying
fertility and the procreative powers of the Female, every
Tuesday & Saturday. The animals are presented to the priest
who will ritually decapitate them with a khukuri knife & bathe
the black stone image of Kali in blood.
Dhulikhel
 30
kms east of Kathmandu lies the small resort town of Dhulikhel
set on a hill top, enveloped in copper soiled terraces with
magnificent views of the central Himalayan peaks. Dhulikhel is
well known for its sunrise views and a number of day trails
lead along the north ridge of the town. A good way to get a
glimpse of Nepalese village life.
Godavari
18
kms south of Kathmandu lies the Royal Botanical Gardens at
Godavari. With its rushing streams and shady meadows it is a
popular picnic spot. It also has a notable collection of
orchids, cactii & ferns. A quiet path leads to the Godavari
Kunda, a spring where the sacred water of the Godavari river
pours from the mountains.
Kakani
The
village of Kakani lies 29 kms north west of Kathmandu City.
Famous for magnificent views of the sun setting over the north
western Himalayan range; the Ganesh Himal massif, Gaurishankar
(7,134 m), Choba Bhamare (6,016 m), Himalchuli (7,893 m),
Annapurna (8,091 m). The drive to Kakani & back along the
Trishuli Road is scenically rewarding with green forest &
mountain grandeur on one side and fertile river flats and
terraced hillside cultivation on the other.
Kirtipur
Perched on twin hillocks and clinging to a saddle about 5 km
south west of Kathmandu lies the village of Kirtipur. A long
flight of steps leads up to Kirtipur from the valley floor & a
motorable road goes part way up the hill. Steep paths link
brick houses built on terraces. The villagers dressed in
traditional costume work on ancient looms. The people are well
known for their strength and valour. Many historical battles
were fought and won by the inhabitants of Kirtipur.
Kopan Monastery
A
center of Mahayana Buddhism was established in 1969 by two
Lamas; Lama Thupten Zopa Rinpoche & Lama Thupten Yeshe. Since
its inception the center has been responsible for introducing
thousands to Buddha's teaching through meditation courses,
lectures & retreats.
Nagarkot
The
tiny settlement of Nagarkot clings to a hilltop 36 kms east of
Kathmandu at an altitude of 2,099m. It is one of the best
vantage point to view the peaks - from the Annapurnas to
Everest, the peaks seem no more than a day's walk away. It is
also possible to do a day hike from Nagarkot to Dhulikhel
along the valley rim.
Nagarjun
Nagarjun, a prominent forested hill, west of Kathmandu topped
with a Buddhist stupa with superb views of Ganesh Himal,
Langtang and the Kathmandu valley. A dirt road winds to the
top (2,096m) though a trek would take two hours. A return
trail descends the southwest side of Nagarjun to Ichangu
Narayan and reaches Kathmandu via a dirt road that eventually
comes out behind Swayambhunath.
Namo Buddha
Namo
Buddha meaning "hail to the Buddha" a sacred site, where
according to legend Buddha sacrificed his body to feed a
starving tigress & her cubs. A carved stone slab at the main
stupa depicts the moving story. A dirt road (suitable for 4
wheel drive vehicles) leads up to Namo Buddha from Dhulikhel.
A different trail returns descending south through a forest
heading west up a long vale for a round trip walk of six to
seven hours, or 2 to 3 hours to Panauti.
Panauti
Located at the confluence of the Punyamati & Roshi Khola
rivers, Panauti was once an important staging post on the
Tibet trade route with pre-Lichhavi origins. The banks of the
river are now crowded with temples, shrines and cremation
ghats. Across the river lies the recently restored Brahmayani
temple. The Indreshwar Mahadev temple is a 15th
century Newari structure with exquisite woodcarvings
especially on the roof struts.
Pashupatinath
 It
is situated 5 kms east of Kathmandu on the banks of the sacred
Bagmati River. The temple of lord Shiva, Pashupatinath, with a
tiered golden roof & silver doors is famous for its superb
architecture. Entrance to the temple precinct is forbidden to
non-Hindus. The best view is from the terrace on the wooded
hill across the river. The large gilded triple-roofed temple
was built in 1696 AD though 300 years earlier there was a
structure on this site. The Bagmati River is lined with
dharmasalas and cremation ghats including a royal ghat
reserved exclusively for members of the royal family. There is
usually a cremation in progress on one of the platforms by the
river, regarded as holy as it flows into the sacred Ganges.
There are many occasions when the faithful take ritual
purificatory baths in the river. One of the most colorful is
the women's festival of Teej when dressed in their finest red
and gold saris hundreds of women, laughing and singing
converge on Pashupatinath.
Phulchowki
The
triple peaked hill of Phulchowki the "flower-covered hill", is
highest on the valley rim at 2,762m. Lying 20 kms south east
of Kathmandu, a road winds its way to the top where a small
shrine is built to the mother of the forest, Phulchowki Mai.
The trail up to the top takes about 4 hours through lovely
rhododendron & oak forests crossing the motorable road a
couple of times. Enjoy a breathtaking view of the white peaks
from Himalchuli to the Everest. There is a trail connecting
Phulchowki to Pharping on one side and Panauti on the other.
Sankhu
Hills surround the sleepy village of Sankhu, once on the trade
route east to Helambu. Forests above the village hide an
important temple to the tantric goddess, Bajra Jogini. Follow
the wide stone path north of the village and walk up the steps
to the temple, flanked with smaller shrines, stupas and
statues. The main structure is 17th century and has a fine
golden torana above the door. Behind the temple there are
other shrines & sculptures.
Shivapuri
Shivapuri, at a height of 2,732m, allows one a 360 degree view
of the Himalaya in the north & the Kathmandu valley in the
south.
The
trail up to Shivapuri hill leads through small farming
villages & a protected forest of Rhododendrons & orchids with
little mountain streams running through it.
This
can be made into a most enjoyable full day's programme.
Swayambhunath
 Atop
a green hillock west of Kathmandu stands the great stupa of
Swayambhunath, a site over 2,500 years old marking the point
where the legendary patriarch Manjushri discovered the lotus
of the ancient Valley lake. For centuries an important center
of Buddhist learning, the painted eyes of the Buddha gaze out
from all four sides of the monument. Constructed to specific
rules each with a symbolic meaning, the stupa of Swayambhunath
is a model of its kind. Its’ dazzling white hemispherical
mound represent the ladder to nirvana, itself symbolized by
the umbrella on the top. The whole is hung with multi-colored
prayer flags whose every flutter releases holy prayers. The
faithful circumambulate the stupa clockwise, turning the banks
of prayer wheels and even prostrating full-length in
reverence.
Thimi
A
name derived from the world "Chhemi" meaning "Capable people"
is well known for its colourful painted masks, dolls & for its
terracotta work including delightful peacock & elephant flower
pots and imaginatively moulded candle stands & ashtrays.
This
village of Thimi lies on the old road to Bhaktapur from
Kathmandu.
Tika Bhairav
A
Shiva shrine of an altogether difference register is located
at Tika Bhairav near Lele, where Shiva is portrayed in his
terrible form as Bhairav. To reach this unusual shrine, the
client must travel outside the Kathmandu Valley to the
adjoining Lele Valley to the south. This monumental, multi
colored fresco is an abstract close-up of Bhirav's face
painted on a huge brick wall, barely sheltered by a tin roof.
The Four Ganesh Temples
Ganesh, the elephant-headed god, is one of the most favored
divinities in Hinduism and is certainly the most favored in
the Kathmandu Valley. The god of good luck, who casts aside
obstacles is believed to be the son of Shiva & Parvati. The
shrew is his vehicle and he especially likes offerings of
food. Ganesh has numerous shrines throughout the Valley but
four are particularly sacred. The Chandra Binayak is in the
middle of the village of Chabahil, 200m behind the Chabahil
stupa. This small Ganesh is enshrined amidst rich brasswork &
is believed to cure diseases and external bodily injuries. The
simple stone Ganesh at the Surya Binayak is halfway up the
foothills south of Bhaktapur. The path heads uphill to the
little shrine, considered able to give the power of speech to
young children who are slow to talk. In a forest preserve
between the villages of Bungmati & Khokana lies the Karya
Binayak. From the road linking the hamlets, a path leads up to
a beautiful clearing and the walled compound of the shrine.
Here Ganesh is an elephant-shaped stone and is believed to
help complete difficult tasks. Those seeking strength of
character go to worship the Ganesh at Jal Binayak, just beyond
the Chovar Gorge. A beautiful brass shrew faces the massive
rock that represents Ganesh in this triple roofed temple
constructed in 1602 AD.
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